Cheap Eats: CityPub
By Kyle Wagner
Denver Post dining critic
Friday, November 12, 2004
If at first you
do succeed, try, try again. That seems to be the motto of Richard
Salturelli, who has taken his CityGrille concept (the casual
bar and grill he put in across from the Capitol about six years
ago) and duplicated it nicely in CityPub South, his new spot
in the old Toby Jug building on South Yosemite Street.
CityPub looks different
from CityGrille, a little less cramped, a little more inviting,
with the dining area better separated from the bar so that folks
looking to enjoy a more family-oriented meal get some space
between them and the pool tables and the raucous laughter, but
not the TVs, which are present in oversized form in the main
room along with a fireplace.
The menu, on the
other hand, is very much the same. Of course, there is that
now-famous burger ($7), a thick slab made the way CityGrille
chef David Minty originally created it, with a half-pound of
fresh-ground sirloin steak set atop a triangular-shaped bun
from Bluepoint Bakery, with crispy, salty fries on the side.
And the great gringo
green chile is there, too, its fiery brew available as a side
($4.95 for a bowl) as well as smothering chiles rellenos ($7.25),
their roasted insides stuffed with Monterey jack and cheddar,
the exteriors somewhere between crispy and soft, with rice and
not-too-smooshy refried beans on the side.
CityPub has some
of CityGrille's other Mexican favorites as well. There are the
chicken enchiladas ($7.25), better than many versions because
the kitchens use blue corn tortillas and chicken seasoned with
a salty, chile-fired mixture, and the giant veggie burrito ($6.25)
that comes with just-mashed guacamole and a smoky enchilada
treats, try the Cobb salad ($7.25), notable for its well-grilled
chicken and abundance of sweet-smoked bacon. City wings ($6.25)
are notable if you choose the blueberry habanero barbecue sauce
instead of the standard, but still tasty, regular hot sauce,
and the Philly cheesesteak ($7.75), filled with ribeye, grilled
green peppers and onions, and gooey white American cheese ribboned
Also like CityGrille,
CityPub offers specials nights, such as Burger Madness Tuesdays
and T-Bone Saturdays.
There is one big
difference between CityPub and CityGrille, though, and that's
the clientele. CityPub isn't filled with lobbyists and legislators.
Instead, the gathering is usually more of a mix, from twentysomethings
looking for a good beer and a burger to families out for an
easy, inexpensive meal.
Dining critic Kyle
Wagner can be reached at 303-820-1958 or firstname.lastname@example.org
3575 S. Yosemite St.
Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily
Visa, MC; Street parking and lot
Front Burner: This
is yet another way to enjoy one of the best burgers in town,
in a less bar-oriented environment.
Burner: Is anyone offering actual service anymore?