Cheap Eats: CityPub South
By Kyle Wagner
Denver Post dining critic

Friday, November 12, 2004 -

If at first you do succeed, try, try again. That seems to be the motto of Richard Salturelli, who has taken his CityGrille concept (the casual bar and grill he put in across from the Capitol about six years ago) and duplicated it nicely in CityPub South, his new spot in the old Toby Jug building on South Yosemite Street.

CityPub looks different from CityGrille, a little less cramped, a little more inviting, with the dining area better separated from the bar so that folks looking to enjoy a more family-oriented meal get some space between them and the pool tables and the raucous laughter, but not the TVs, which are present in oversized form in the main room along with a fireplace.

The menu, on the other hand, is very much the same. Of course, there is that now-famous burger ($7), a thick slab made the way CityGrille chef David Minty originally created it, with a half-pound of fresh-ground sirloin steak set atop a triangular-shaped bun from Bluepoint Bakery, with crispy, salty fries on the side.

And the great gringo green chile is there, too, its fiery brew available as a side ($4.95 for a bowl) as well as smothering chiles rellenos ($7.25), their roasted insides stuffed with Monterey jack and cheddar, the exteriors somewhere between crispy and soft, with rice and not-too-smooshy refried beans on the side.

CityPub has some of CityGrille's other Mexican favorites as well. There are the chicken enchiladas ($7.25), better than many versions because the kitchens use blue corn tortillas and chicken seasoned with a salty, chile-fired mixture, and the giant veggie burrito ($6.25) that comes with just-mashed guacamole and a smoky enchilada sauce.

For non-Mexican treats, try the Cobb salad ($7.25), notable for its well-grilled chicken and abundance of sweet-smoked bacon. City wings ($6.25) are notable if you choose the blueberry habanero barbecue sauce instead of the standard, but still tasty, regular hot sauce, and the Philly cheesesteak ($7.75), filled with ribeye, grilled green peppers and onions, and gooey white American cheese ribboned throughout.

Also like CityGrille, CityPub offers specials nights, such as Burger Madness Tuesdays and T-Bone Saturdays.

There is one big difference between CityPub and CityGrille, though, and that's the clientele. CityPub isn't filled with lobbyists and legislators. Instead, the gathering is usually more of a mix, from twentysomethings looking for a good beer and a burger to families out for an easy, inexpensive meal.

Dining critic Kyle Wagner can be reached at 303-820-1958 or kwagner@denverpost.com .

CityPub South
AMERICAN/MEXICAN
3575 S. Yosemite St.
303-694-0454
$5-$9

Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily
Visa, MC; Street parking and lot

Front Burner: This is yet another way to enjoy one of the best burgers in town, in a less bar-oriented environment.
Back Burner: Is anyone offering actual service anymore?